Simple Gifts

We have been fans of Stillman’s Farm since long before we became CSA members, so when the call went out for volunteers to assist with distribution in Brookline, I was happy to sign up. My kids and i found ourselves working on one of the more challenging distribution days: a week with add-ons. In addition to the pre-packed box, each member could select a few items from assorted produce laid out on the table. The choices included red and gold potatoes, green beans, a variety of cucumbers and overflowing bins of zucchini and yellow summer squash.

Second only to bagging blueberries to accompany each share, my most frequent task seemed to be guiding members in making their selections—and, in particular, explaining the lemon cucumbers. I found myself growing adept with practice: initially pointing out their thin, sweet skin and describing a firmness ideal for slicing, later reassuring people that they did not taste lemony, and eventually referring to them as an heirloom variety and even using my children to demonstrate that one could bite into them “like an apple.”

A few CSA members were wise enough to ask what had been packed into their boxes—or examine the contents themselves—before making their selections. We had all received some cucumbers and assorted squash that day. Although that did not stop many people from grabbing a few more thirst-quenching cucumbers, most avoided the squash. Some offered an explanation—“We already sauteed squash for dinner four nights in a row” or “How much zucchini bread do you expect me to make?” or “We still have two left from last week”—but really none was necessary. As the afternoon progressed, the potatoes disappeared, followed quickly by the snappy green beans. By the time we were handing out the last few shares, all that remained on the table was a handful of pickling cucumbers...and a mostly full box of squash.

Summer squash overflow is a common theme in July and August. In addition to the zucchini bounty we have been reaping from our CSA, we have already harvested a few crookneck squash from —and that plant shows no signs of slowing. With another month (at least) of zucchini abundance to go, I will have to rely on a variety of preparations to stave off boredom.

My family has enjoyed more than a few quick dinners of summer squash sauteed with onions and tomatoes, tossed with pasta and topped with a handful of freshly-picked basil. I fried up a batch of zucchini-carrot fritters earlier this week, only to have my kids ask why we were having latkes when Chanukah is still months away. Our freezer is already filling with muffins, and chocolate chip zucchini bread will be our standard brunch contribution for the next month or two. And now that green beans and potatoes are rolling in, I look forward to using some zucchini in a large pot of fasolakia freska every week.

After a morning of muffin-making during last week’s heat wave, I could not imagine turning on the oven again—or doing much of anything really—for lunch. Browsing The Gourmet Cookbook I encountered a recipe for zucchini carpaccio: thinly sliced squash, simply dressed with good olive oil, its natural sweetness contrasting with peppery arugula and enhanced with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. The directions called for a mandoline to create paper-thin slices, and though I lacked one I remained undaunted by the challenge of slicing by hand.

A loaf of bread and a small platter of cheese rounded out the simple family meal. I was so pleased with the results—and so overwhelmed by zucchini—that I assembled a double recipe the next evening when our friends arrived with pizza for a casual dinner. If the zucchini slices were a little thicker than they should have been, nobody complained. By the end of the night, only a few forkfuls remained.

I imagined enjoying the leftovers at a park the next afternoon, relaxing for a moment in the shade while my children amused themselves on the playground. Alas, that moment did not exist outside of my imagination. As soon as I unpacked the zucchini slices, now gently softened by their overnight marinade, my daughter danced over to me and opened her mouth wide. I did manage to enjoy a bite or two myself—but even more, I enjoyed watching my child delight in this simple preparation of one of nature’s gifts.

Zucchini “Carpaccio”
adapted from Ruth Reichl, The Gourmet Cookbook (Conde Nast 2004)
Serves 4-6
Time: 15 minutes

• 2 medium, very fresh zucchini (about 3/4 pound)
• 1/2 c coarsely chopped arugula leaves
• 3 Tbsp good quality extra virgin olive oil
• 1-2 tsp balsamic vinegar
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating

1. Slice zucchini into very thin rounds, about 1/16th of an inch thick, and arrange slices on a large platter, slightly overlapping. Scatter chopped arugula over zucchini.

2. Drizzle olive oil and then vinegar evenly over zucchini and arugula. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using a vegetable peeler or the large holes on a box grater, shave large curls of cheese and scatter them on top.