Sichuan Gourmet: A Spicy Cuisine, with Depth of Flavor

What you’ve heard about Sichuan cuisine is true: it can bring the heat.

I’m no stranger to a bit of spice, either in restaurants or in my own cooking (and yes, I’ve eaten many a hot pepper on a double-dog-dare). But what I love about good Sichuan food, and about Sichuan Gourmet on Beacon Street, is the depth of flavor that’s evident alongside the spice. Here you’ll find a chorus of tastes—ginger, sesame oil, garlic, chili, and Sichuan peppercorns singing in harmony together, in nuances that reach far beyond the mere marker of “spicy.”

Take the Xiang La Twin Lobster as an example; sure, it might make your tongue tingle, but there’s also notes of a savory blend similar to five-spice powder, and the fruitiness of Sichuan peppercorns. Or take the Cheng Du Spicy Dumplings, filled with succulent pork, and slippery with a sauce that’s sweet and dark and full of fire. A mound of crushed raw garlic on top adds a pungent sharpness, for a different kind of spice. 

But even if you’re not one of the Capsicum-seeking crowd, read on! for awaiting you are mild-yet-exciting dishes like the earthy sweet-sour Fish Filet with Pine Nuts, and the gentle Baby Greens Topped with Black Mushroom. Co-owner Wen Wang stresses the importance of balance when ordering in this family-style setting, to achieve a mix of spicy versus milder dishes, or pairings of dishes with and without sauce.

And now for my full disclosure: I came to Sichuan Gourmet seeking the Fish Filet and Tofu with Pepper, which the Boston Globe rated one of their most memorable dishes of 2010. It was even better than I expected—filets of excellently-cooked white fish with silky tofu in a peppery sauce. It didn’t look impressive when it came to the table, but the texture was glorious, and the sauce was full of flavor with a nice, slow burn. I loved also the delicately crusted Shrimp with Garlic and Pepper, and the Zha Jien Noodle Soup with minced pork and greens in its very round, meaty broth. 

A dish of Steamed Bacon with Spicy Garlic Sauce wasn’t the crispy browned strips we think of as bacon, but instead soft rolls of meat that formed an island in a lake of spicy sauce. A good quarter-inch of bright red chili oil floating atop the sauce may look terrifying, but it finds a good home on the otherwise plain bacon.

Dan Dan noodles with minced pork and ground chili were fine, as was the old standby, General Tso's Chicken, which here gave us thick, crispy breading, lots of ginger, and a sauce without that ugly fake-sweet taste.  A bowl of Hot and Sour Soup lacked the depth of flavor found in the other dishes, but I did appreciate the fresh bamboo shoots in the bowl.

The service is attentive, and quick, too—our first dish came out so quickly that I thought it was a mistake, destined for another table. There’s also a full bar serving beer, wine, and cocktails, including a scorpion bowl for two that the bartender will—no kidding—light on fire for you, if you’d like. But even that can’t overshadow the subtle spectacle of the food, which celebrates the best of true Sichuan cuisine.

Sichuan Gourmet is located at 1004-1006 Beacon Street, and accessible by T, St. Mary's Stop on the Green line (B). Open Mon-Thu and Sun 11:30 a.m. until 9:30 p.m.; Fri and Sat 11:30 a.m. until 10:30 p.m. 

Sichuan Gourmet also has locations in Framingham, Billerica, and Sharon. All locations have lunch and dinner hours; all locations are open seven days per week. Visit their website at www.laosichuan.com for details.